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Logan's Style Watch

Do Advertisers Want to Shock, Win Prizes, or Sell?

by Logan Bentley Lessona

ROME -- Sometimes I wonder what those creative people, some of whom earn very high salaries, are thinking about when they dream up those fashion ads we see in the newspapers and fashion magazines.

Millions and millions of dollars are spent in the hopes that we consumers will buy, buy, buy, even though we don't NEED most of the stuff. Of course, we do because we hope it will help us look more attractive, or achieve happiness, or become rich.

Unfortunately, so many of the ads I see appear to be conceived more in the hopes of winning an award at the advertising community's equivalent of Hollywood's Oscars than actually selling shoes or dresses or jewelry or whatever.

Since we're talking about fashion here, the designers often have a lot more input in the creation of their ad campaigns than, say, the soap manufacturers. After all, the fashion designers are "artists," they are "creatives" and who better qualified to motivate people to buy their soap, excuse me, fashions? Whereas they often succeed admirably, other times I'm not so sure.

"Shocking" ads are nothing new, but sometimes I honestly don't understand other ads that only serve to confuse or even alienate prospective customers. So to get down to the nitty gritty, here are some of this season's advertisements that have either annoyed or puzzled me. And, to be fair to all involved, I'll also name some of those that inspire me to buy.

Let's start with Gucci, one of the current fashion stars. In this case Gucci's creative director, Tom Ford, is very actively involved in the creation of all Gucci ads. I read in Linlee Allen's excellent daily fashion column on Fashion Net that he threw out the current Autumn-Winter ads, changed the photographer, and had the campaign completely re-photographed. Result? Well, I like the model a lot better than the blonde he used last time, with a gap between her front teeth, and a bored, deadpan expression on her face. Sorry to use the term, but all the fancy Gucci duds in the world didn't keep her from looking like white trash.

I don't like the thick black hair combed sideways across the new model's forehead, giving her a Neanderthal look. The outdoor setting is attractive but some of the photos leave me puzzled. Gucci is projecting youth, trend, fashion, and luxury, but what exactly are they trying to tell us with a photo of our brunette lying on the sand, pulling down the skirt of a buttery-soft taupe kidskin mini-dress to keep her panties from showing while resting the other hand on a signature moccasin in the same color worn by a topless male model sans head in a rather aggressive stance. The model looks into the camera's lens, her lips slightly parted. The photo is well lit and in sharp focus. But I don't get the message. Sorry, Tom.

Another sharp, well-lit photo in the campaign has a beach, hovering seagulls, and rolling waves in the background. Two young women in the foreground, both with long, straight hair, wear black chiffon dresses. One model gazes into the camera's lens, her well-manicured hands rest lightly on the hips of the second model who is turned sideways, her gaze aimed towards one hand which brushes the bare décolleté of model number one, the other hand touching her shoulder. I can't really see the dresses. A tender lesbian moment? I'm not sure.

Benetton is back to basics. No more controversial ads. Guess the loss of the Sears contract hurt. A smiling young man with freckles on his dark skin sports a toothy smile as he presses eight folded sweaters (four per side) against his cheeks in a deceptively simple typical Oliviero Toscani photo. Thumbs up.

Donatella Versace has stopped using blonde male and female models that look like her clones, and the photos used in the ads are most attractive if you aspire to be a young Palm Beach matron with teased shoulder-length blonde hair, diamond solitaires on your fingers, lavishly-furnished living rooms and verandas, wearing bright, colorful dresses and suits. I don't think the ladies in Palm Beach use pale blue eye shadow on their eyelids, but that comes under artistic license, right?

For more of the rich lady look check the ads of Valentino and Roberto Cavalli, who aspires to be the new Versace. Both placed their male and female models around lavish swimming pools, and Cavalli added zebra skin rugs and live wild tigers to spice things up a bit. Valentino has been trying for years to give his ads a youthful look; the women sport forties makeup and hairdos complete with modified pompadours. The men wear sunglasses, slicked-back hair, and very brief swimsuits. Some models talk on cell phones; others consult what appear to be movie scripts. Are they all waiting for contracts?

Sorry, I'm running out of space. We'll bring you Prada and others in Part II, and remember, if you want to feel fashionable without spending a fortune you can always buy some designer soap or cologne.



© 2000 Logan Bentley Lessona
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