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Logan's Style Watch
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SPRING-SUMMER TRENDS FOR 2001 (Part II)
by Logan Bentley Lessona
ROME, February 11, 2001 --Here are some more trends shown by fashion gurus for the coming spring and summer. In the first column I mentioned circle skirts in light fabrics, the safari look, and flowers as themes. There are so many ideas out there that it's very encouraging, because women of all ages and shapes can find something fresh and flattering, often by digging back in the closet and pulling out something they, their mom or even their grandmother wore a decade or two ago.
Yes, yes, I realize that the economists say we're heading for a recession, that consumer confidence is down, and people aren't buying so much. But then I hate waste and conspicuous consumption, and there's nothing I love more than being able to recycle something from my closet. And if I were still a size 12 I would be doing a lot of that, believe me!
There's also something to be said for having something brand new that you love and wearing it for the first time. Both my mother and daughter belong to this club. Recently I hit the factory outlet stores in Italy of Gucci and Prada and others and my daughter could not wait to wear some soft dark brown leather boots with drawstring top and rubber soles.
The sailor look featuring navy blue and white is fresh and wearable as it has been for years, with the classic blue blazer in the lightest wool garbardine or cotton, horizontally-striped blue and white t-shirts, white pants suit with shiny brass buttons and cinched at the waist with a wide dark blue belt from Max Mara, or Fendi's knee-length navy blue trench accented with a white scarf at the neck and worn over narrow white pants chopped just above the ankle.
Bright contrasting sailor stripes were also favorites with Missoni, who showed a red, white, and blue optical print dress with a deep v neck and Prada with an elegant and easy-to-copy look if you dont have big hips - a long-sleeved black silk turtleneck sweater worn over a slim white skirt to the knee with horizontal orange bands. Giorgio Armani's dark beige and white striped jerseys were worn over white trousers, while Miu Miu's sweater with a high neck and long sleeves in wide black and white stripes was paired with a plain white tube mini skirt.
Vuitton put a long-sleeved white sweater with horizontal stripes in dark brown over a gathered beige skirt to below the knees, Iceberg's sweater is white with beige strips over low-slung wide white trousers, Valentino's coral and white sweater worn with wide-cut coral trousers leaves a band of tummy with navel on show, and Trussardi's beige sweater striped with coral is shown with narrow ice-blue pants. Dries Van Noten with an oversize jacket in blue, cocoa, and white vertical stripes over a frilly chiffon knee-length skirt.
Speaking of chiffon, you'll be seeing a lot of it along with voile, crepe de chine and other fluttery and often semi-transparent fabrics during the warm months. These fabrics are used in fresh versions of classic dresses that we've been seeing around for years, and if your budget doesn't allow a trip to the local department store, aim your feet at your local thrift shop before the fashionistas get there first.
There fabrics really lend themselves to draping, which is always flattering. A classic dress is sleeveless with a draped bodice and low v-neck above a layered bias-cut skirt in a choice of lengths: mini, top of the knee, bottom of the knee, mid-calf, or ankle length. Alberta Ferretti did it in cream chiffon. Sometimes it's decorated with feathers. Other versions come as a toga with just one shoulder covered (Lawrence Steele and Antonio Berardi), strapless (Emporio Armani, Krizia, and Donna Karan), or pleated and to the floor with a handkerchief hemline (Issey Miyake). Callagan, Kenzo, Byblos, Emporio Armani,
Valentino, and Alexander McQueen presented their versions on the theme.
More trends: gingham checks, geometric and optical prints, glitz and glitter, gold, long and slinky, black and white, and bright colors like orange, red, pea green and yellow.
A few accessories to give a fresh look to your wardrobe: (1) wide, often curved belts like those shown by Anna Molinari, Gianfrance Ferre' (he's always loved them), Missoni, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Christian Dior, and Blumarine. (2) Big flash costume jewelry, even during the day, like the long rhinestone flowers that dangled to the shoulder from Dolce & Gabbana. (3)Large handbags (women can't function all day long with a small Baguette). (4) Dark glasses, any kind as long as they give you attitude. (5) ) Cowboy hats (Texas is in fashion, no?).
If I could buy just one thing to give my look an injection of fashion it would be a bustier. You know, that strapless top with vertical boning that pushes up your bosom for a sexy look and can be worn during the day if you're young enough for a funky look, or at night with shiny tight pants or a full swirly skirt, to the knee or to the floor. In black leather or gold lurex, embroidered jeans, silk or any fabric, different versions where shown by Yves St. Laurent, Gucci, Gikvenchy, Christian Dior and Costume National among others.
I'm glad to report that the platform shoe, often two-toned, with high heel and cutout toe, sometimes with ankle strap, sometimes closed, that I recommended as the must-buy last seasons is still going strong, so if you followed my advice and haven't twisted your ankle yet you didn't waste your money. But then, as my grandmother Ethel always said, "You have to suffer to be beautiful" and that was before the bikini wax existed!
© 2001 Logan Bentley Lessona
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